When, in early July, I finally made up my mind to start my travels in Michigan, the number one thing I wanted to do was to hike along Lake Superior in Pictured Rocks. (A very close second was to visit Isle Royale, but I decided I rather save that one for when I can go with a travel buddy). Leisurely backpacking the 42.4 mile section of the North Country Trail that passes through the park seemed like a lovely way to spend three or four days.
But I had not properly considered the fact that late July is the height of the peak season.
After carefully planning out possible stops, I went on the website to get the required camping permits and found that all of the backcountry campgrounds were filled for the days I wanted. Some of the most popular sites were even booked through Labor Day. In disbelief, I clicked through every option, ultimately locating an opening at Trappers Lake, 18 miles from one end, and 24.4 miles from the other.
Not the stroll along the Lake I originally pictured, but I was looking forward to the challenge.
Because of the way the shuttles run, I decided to start with the shorter leg, leaving the 24 miles for the second. So at 10:30 Tuesday morning, I set out from Grand Sable Visitor Center and headed west.
(By the way, I highly recommend Altran shuttle service. They were super friendly and helpful.)
The day was lovely. The trail was fairly flat, but winding and varied between meadows and dunes and forests. I enjoyed all there was to see, but I didn't stop to play. I knew I had plenty of time (the sun wouldn't set until 9:30), but I was still nervous. Besides, the description of the campsite listed Lake Superior as one of its water sources. I could play there.
Au Sable Light
Much of the hike looked like this
Often there were ferns
I got to the campground around 6:15. Lake Superior turned out to be an easy 1/2 mile away, but no matter. Trappers Lake was beautiful and the air smelled fresh and piney. I sent up camp and went to gather water for the night and next day.
Problem.
I have a Sawyer filter. To use it, you fill a plastic pouch, then squeeze the water out through the straw-like filter. This works really well when the water source is a creek or a stream; the current fills the bag right up. To my frustration, this is not the case with lakes. No matter what I tried, the surrounding pressure of the lake would collapse the pouch before I could get it more than a quarter filled. Annoying, but I could still refill my Nalgenes. It would just take longer.
Wrong.
My filter was clogged. Whether it was plaster dust or spider eggs, something was blocking the flow. No amount of squeezing or sucking on the end ever produced more than slight trickle. After 20 minutes of struggling, I'd only managed to filter about one cup of water. Cursing myself for not checking it before I left, I changed plans. I boiled as much water as I could and left it to cool overnight. Also, I still had a mostly-full bottle since I'd been able refill at a tap once along the water. After a solid night's sleep, I left the next morning with just under 2 liters of water. The next campsite with potable water was about 17 miles away.
The Trappers Lake campsite
The first few hours of the second morning were my favorite of the whole trip. The trail now followed along the top of towering sandstone cliffs. It was nonstop gorgeous views. I took my time, exploring several overlooks and side trails.
That's Grand Portal Point in the distance, my halfway point for the day.
The hike started a few miles east of that furthest point.
Almost to Grand Portal!
Around lunchtime, and just shy of my halfway point, I stopped at Chapel Beach to take a break and play in Lake Superior. A touristy spot, it was more crowded than I would have liked, but it also seemed like my last chance to get in the Lake. I didn't want to make the same mistake as yesterday. So, with the background soundtrack of bruh-types loudly proclaiming the effects of the cold water on various bits of their anatomy, I splashed around awhile then dried off in the sun.
Not long after leaving Chapel Beach, several things happened at once.
First, my feet started hurting. It was as if after being pampered by the cool water and warm sand, they now resented being back in boots.
Second, upon passing Grand Portal, the trail reenter the forest. Although shady, the breeze off Superior was blocked and things got muggy.
Third, I realized I only 3/4 of a liter left in my water supply and I was still a few hours from Miner's Castle, the next place with drinkable water.
It was this last one that really got to me. I started feeling achy and sluggish. The hip I'd injured back around Memorial Day began to protest. And my feet...oh my feet! To make matters worse, the last two miles before Miner's Castle included the longest stretch of soft, soft sand and one of the steepest, scrambliest climbs.
As my physical discomfort increased, my mental state deteriorated. I got caught up in a self-abasing pity party about how stupid I was to be in this situation. Access to water was limited at this point, but what kind of idiot would become dehydrated right next to a source of fresh water as large as Lake Superior?!
The thing is, I was fine. Yes, I was very tired and uncomfortable, but I was fine. Once I made it to the water fountain and had a few long drinks, sanity returned. I realized the biggest source of my misery was my own pride. I'd passed several other campers throughout the day and never once thought to ask to borrow their filter. For all my enthusiasm and interest in the activity, I have actually backpacked very little. I sometimes feel insecure about this and have a lingering fear that I'll be exposed as a wannabe and a fraud. In short, I was too embarrassed to ask for help.
This also shows I wasn't that thirsty. If the situation was critical, pride would have gone out the window. I hope...
The last few hours of the hike are a bit of a blur. Refreshed with water and snacks, I made good time. A steady rain began. As I was in the wetlands portion of the park, mud puddles were frequent and large. I was miraculously stable on the rolly-polly logs spanning the soupiest mud. Looks like all the PiYo and yoga classes paid off!
Maple trees growing out of a sand dune
I got back to my car around 9:30, about 13 hours after I started. According the step counter on my phone, I went 21.7 miles the first day and 30.1 the second. It always overestimates, though. The aches and pains made it difficult to fall asleep, but I awoke feeling fine. Other than a mystery rash caused by my socks, and blisters on my shoulders from a territorial dispute between my bra and shoulder straps, I had no lasting negative effects.
My quick recovery is further proof that I was being overly dramatic in my self-pity. Looking back, I think that experience is exactly why I need to go on this sort of adventure. I need to go places that are uncomfortable and unfamiliar, and see that I am okay despite my fears. It makes truly difficult that much easier to face.
I don't know if I'll ever go back to Pictured Rocks, but if I do, I would want to get a kayak. Or run the trail in one day (west to east, and with a companion). Or maybe check out the ice climbing scene.
Thanks for reading all this. Feedback and questions are welcome. (c:
PS After a quick backwash, my filter works again. I also bought one better suited for lakes. Between those and the two Life Straws my siblings gave me for Christmas, I should have the cleanest water around!
PS After a quick backwash, my filter works again. I also bought one better suited for lakes. Between those and the two Life Straws my siblings gave me for Christmas, I should have the cleanest water around!
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