I headed to Rocky Mountain National Park because northern Colorado had the closest mountains I'd never been to. Arriving on a Wednesday afternoon, I asked a park ranger about some of her favorite hikes. This yielded such an enthusiastic answer, I asked a few other rangers. Requesting their personal favorites resulted in a lot more interesting options than just asking for recommendations. So simple!
View across Beaver Meadow |
Thunder Lake |
Ranger cabin at Thunder Lake |
One of the 8 moose I encountered. They were all busy eating, eating, eating. |
Long Meadow. The sign at the turnoff read "Unmaintained trail". My heart replied, "Yes!" |
Canyon area below Timber Lake |
I had the whole place to myself (c: |
Pausing while scrambling over a landslide area to take in the view |
As luck would have it, I had the exact right conversation with the exact right person. She and I had a good chat about solo hiking in general and in the park specifically. She got where I was coming from, and was both affirming and frank in her cautions. Her tips were solid. She even drew in a couple short trails unlabeled on the park maps.
Encouraged, I decided to save that hike for Monday and spend the weekend in the Indian Peaks Wilderness south of the park. Ultimately, I didn't explore Indian Peaks much. Saturday my stomach felt kind of puny, so I spent most of the day sitting on top of a picnic table alternating between reading and people watching. In the evening, I strolled around a nearby lake. It was a quiet, lonely day.
Sunday, still feeling less than awesome, I explored some simpler trails near the headwaters of the Colorado River. It was also the first outing I took the Friends on after their misbehavior at Craters of the Moon (more on that later). That night, I stuck around for the ranger-led night hike. After spending 99% of my time in solitude, I was hoping for some human interaction. This plan backfired somewhat because I was in the bathroom during introductions. Then, surprised by the ranger saying he thought there are about 50 moose in the park, I awkwardly blurted, "But I've seen 8!" Lastly, between the bright half-moon and being comfortable with the dark, I didn't use my flashlight and accidentally startled a few people. Ultimately, I had a good time. Everyone was nice, but I don't think they knew what to make of me.
The Colorado Rive as a baby with the Never Summer Mountains in the background. |
The hike up was lovely and scenic and all the things you'd expect, but I don't remember much about it. I've talked before about my long-standing fears of finding myself unwelcome in wild and beautiful places. In my mind, whenever I picture those places, it's usually a high mountain peak. While I was nowhere near as anxious as I was my first day backpacking in Idaho (see 'Soloing in Sawtooth'), I was still...wary? Unsettled? Uncomfortable, maybe? I don't know how to put it into words, but I do know I was less afraid of the mountain than I was of what would come after.
Around the time I reached treeline, the weather changed. Some clouds near the summit looked like they were considering becoming a storm. The wind blew stronger. It was spitting rain and sleet. Oddly enough, I found this encouraging. A few weeks prior, strong wind in my face would've screamed "Unwelcome!" This time, however, it was simply part of it. I was watching the clouds - no lightning ever came - but I was resolved not to lose the head game.
When I reach the top of Flat Top, it was...anticlimactic. It was really pretty, but indeed flat. Not peaky at all. The wind was blowing harder than ever and no one else was in sight.
One of the trails the ranger drew on my map was to Hallett Peak, a short distance south. I didn't see a trail, but the Peak was right there. Feeling more uncomfortable and more determined than ever, I made my way towards it. Eyeing the top skeptically, I noticed a woman beginning the climb down. I don't know what it was, but all remaining doubts dissolved. The wind was dying down, and when I got to where the real climb began, I found the elusive trail, well marked with cairns all the way up.
Reaching the summit was a quiet moment. No epiphanies. No sobs. No shouts. Just quiet. I'd compare it to the feeling of finally sinking into a comfy chair at the end of a long day on your feet. I felt myself relaxing, relaxing into what I know to be true and what will always be true. Relaxing into my fears, they felt both acknowledged and conquerable. Relaxing into my hopes, they felt grounded and achievable. It was a moment of release.
PIkachu feeling the freedom |
Sitting in the quiet, eating my peanut butter on a stale spinach tortilla, another hiker came up. He was in the midst of a solo backpacking trek. We chatted quite a while, swapping stories from the trail, suggesting other places in the area and around the country. Starved for conversation, it was refreshing to talk with an amiable person long enough to exchange names and contact info.
Hallett Peak to the left; Tyndall Glacier hiding in the shadows to the right |
My lighter mood made the walk down more fun. Reflecting on the irony of meeting an interesting person moments after finding my chill, I started to wonder how many similar opportunities I'd missed because my anxiousness got in the way. Yes, I know. God forbid I cut myself too much slack. Fortunately, that train of thought did little to lessen my mood. However, I do believe the idea may be helpful moving forward.
Alpine tundra |
My mood was so light, I made a minor wrong turn, adding a couple extra miles. This ended up being a boon. Because of that wrong turn, I 1) saw a spectacular view of a valley, 2) encountered a bride in her gown, a groom in his kilt, and two photographers seeking that perfect shot a couple miles up the trail, and 3) passed through a mildly creepy area filled with dozens and dozens of huge burn piles. I believe this was an effort to control pine borer beetles.
The new-to-me valley |
Just a few of the burn piles. Imagine the blaze! |
The next day, Tuesday, was my last full day in Colorado. It was pretty low-key. I spent most of the day poking around Estes Park, then visited a couple last places in the park. I also went for a trail run, confirming that I still need to work on running uphill. It was a good way to end.
An alluvial fan that formed when a dam broke, causing a violent flood back in the 80s |
Using photography as an excuse to catch my breath mid-hill |